The review. An in-depth analysis of new and existing restaurants in the Vail Valley.

No Longer in Business

The latest invocation of the restaurant at the Vail Racquet Club -  The Bighorn Bistro.

This was - prior to our recent visit - probably our favorite restaurant in Vail.  That's saying a lot, but the partnership between Tim Graybill (owner/chef) and Artie was an outstanding combination for dining success.  From our "old locals" perspective, we viewed this off-the-beaten-path establishment as Sweet Basil quality without the Sweet Basil price.

Located in the Vail Racquet Club complex the restaurant site had its ups and downs for many years until these two guys bought it and got it right.

Last summer, after many seasons of culinary successes, Tim sold his interest to Artie.

I wish we could say that the Bistro's life in the new lane was equally as delightful as in the past, but that doesn't seem to be the case.  When we finally had the opportunity to try the place last night (12/14/06), there were some subtle and some not so subtle changes in the operation.

OK.  No more fire in the beautiful fireplace.  Not a big deal, but candles instead of a mesmerizing real log fire does somehow change the atmosphere.

Let's get on with the food.  We still like the menu.  It's eclectic, fairly simple and understandable, and has elements that appeal to adults, kids, and everyone in between.

Sue ordered the walleye special of the evening - I the chicken piccatta (sp?).  We shared a glass of nice viognier while researching the menu and then had a very pleasant pinot grigio with the meal.  The one app. we shared was a plate of bacon wrapped scallops - four to be exact. 

Highlights:   The scallops were outstanding.  Had we ordered a couple more platters, the dinner would have been a success.  We find the wine list to be a continuing treat.  Nice variety of both whites and reds spaced neatly between domestic and foreign offerings.  The prices are terrific.  Maybe just visiting for a bottle and some apps. would solve the quality problems we found with the main courses.

Lowlights:   It took too long for the obligatory "bread" course to arrive.  The lavosh was fine but the other thin, very spicy bread was so pungent, it caused sneezing and was completely out of place before this type of meal.  Worse yet, the hummus that accompanied these products clearly was simply slapped into a tiny ramekin without the slightest concern for its appearance.

Sue was not wowed at all by the walleye which was somewhat overcooked and dry.  Her green beans almandine were basically tough and inedible.  My chicken was not bad at all - somewhat overcooked, but my broccoli was again tough and the accompanying potatoes were dry and tasteless.  We both commented that the meals must have been prepped well ahead of time and then placed under some heat lamps long before sending out to us.  It was a mistake.

It's hard to figure out what this chef's trying to accomplish.  Hopefully he'll get it right shortly - or the place will not survive another couple of years.  That would be a shame.  Until we try this establishment again, we'll not reward it with a single ,.

Reviewed by ORP on 12/14/06

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